how to frame embroidery with lacing

A few years ago I showed how you can easily frame embroidery in an IKEA picture frame. Today I'm going to show you almost the exact same thing, but using a different technique for getting the embroidery stretched and held taut. In fact, this lacing method is more traditional, but I'm often slow to conform.

That might be a little sad and silly, because in this case, after just one go at it I'm extremely pleased and most likely hooked. I'll explain why later.

I decided to try this method out on a whim, hoping that it would hold my stitching nicely. Plus I like to learn different ways of doing the same thing. When I started trying it out, I didn't immediately take any photos, and then when I was nearly halfway through, I realized I should share this process.

Bear in mind that this is my first time doing this. If you want more information or other tutorials for comparison, you'll find them with a quick online search.

So let's dive in and we'll walk through the steps that aren't in the photos. I'm using an inexpensive IKEA frame. This one is 8.5 x 11 inches. But this will work with most frames.

Step 1

Remove the back of the frame as well as the clear plastic. Lay the clear plastic on the back of your embroidery (it should be in a state that's ready to frame...no big wrinkles!).

It's best to have at least an inch of extra fabric that will wrap around to the back of the plastic, so plan accordingly when you're starting your embroidery and cutting your fabric. The extra fabric doesn't have to be trimmed to perfection, but semi-even is helpful.

If your frame has glass instead of plastic (because you have a nicer frame than I do!), you should probably cut a piece of strong cardboard or mat board to replace it. You can try using the glass, but do be careful!



Step 2

Thread a needle with a long piece of perle cotton. Mine was about a yard and a half long and I used size 12, but size 8 or even size 5 should work (maybe even better). Tie a large knot in the other end.

Starting on one of the long sides, wrap the fabric around the plastic and bring the needle up through the fabric. Be sure to come through at least 1/2in from the edge at around the center. This will hold the embroidery evenly and prevent the lacing stitches from pulling the fabric apart.

Cross over to the opposite side and bring the needle through the fabric from bottom to top. Work this way from side to side, pulling the fabric tight as you go.

Once you've worked from the center to one end, start at the center again and work toward the other end. Secure the end of each lacing thread with a large knot, keeping the lacing taut.

I found that it was best to have each lacing stitch be about 1/2in to 3/4in apart. Any wider than that and it starts to pull funny. Also, take a peek at the front every so often to make sure things are staying straight.



Step 3

Fold the two ends in and repeat the same lacing process. Start at the center and work toward the edges.

Stitch through both layers where those extra folds are, and try to keep them as tidy as possible.

Also, when you're working with plastic or cardboard that has some flex to it, it's easy to end up pulling the lacing a little tighter than you need to. This will cause the board to curve and pull toward the back. If it's only a little, it will work out and just stretch your embroidery to a good tightness. If there's a huge flex, you should redo the lacing.



Step 4

Place the laced embroidery in the back of the frame. There won't be any glass covering the embroidery, but that's okay.

Most frames don't have enough thickness to accommodate the glass or plastic, the embroidery, and the backing. Or if they do, the embroidery ends up pressed up tight against the glass, which doesn't look great and isn't good for your embroidery. If you want your embroidery to be covered with glass, check with a professional framer.

In this case, we're framing it, not preserving it.



Step 5

Set the frame backing in place (make sure it's going in the right direction!) and tuck in any fabric bits that might be showing. Secure it with the little tabs, and admire your freshly framed embroidery!



Doesn't it look so nice in a frame like this? I love framing my stitching in an embroidery hoop, but it's good to have options, especially for square or rectangular embroideries.

My original post showing how to frame embroidery in an IKEA frame used tape to hold the fabric. It was fast and easy, and once it's all in the frame, it doesn't go anywhere. But it doesn't pull the embroidery as taut as this does. And really, lacing doesn't take all that long.

I love that frames like this come in different colors/styles and are inexpensive, often no different than the price of a cheap hoop. But they give the embroidery a finished look that is often nicer than a hoop finish. Plus, the back is totally covered so you save time on that part!



Now, about this embroidery you see! You get an early peek at a pattern that I designed for Jerusalem Greer. Her new book, At Home in This Life, is coming out this spring and my pattern is a free gift for anyone who pre-orders! Check out her site for more info on that and then watch for another pattern I'm collaborating on with Jerusalem.

project // embroidered felt stargazing zip pouch

Do zippers intimidate you when sewing? I've sewn them with success, but I still get nervous. This is a zip pouch that is completely the opposite of scary. The zipper is stitched in by hand, so it's practically an extension of the embroidery on the front!

I saw a pouch similar to this once, but it required buying die-cutting templates to cut the pouch. This is something you can embroider with a starscape or your own favorite design...then cut it out and stitch it up. Easy peasy!



You will need:

Wool or wool blend felt
Embroidery floss
Sulky Sticky Fabri-Solvy or tissue paper
Cotton fabric
Fusible interfacing
6-inch zipper

Stargazing Zip Pouch PDF Template

Note: Be sure to print the pattern at 100% so that the zipper will fit the opening. Measure the 1-inch test square to check for accuracy.




Print or trace the starry embroidery design onto Fabri-Solvy or tissue paper, then attach it to the felt so you can stitch through it. Embroider the stars and constellation with three strands of embroidery floss. I used french knots, straight stitches, running stitch, and the star stitch featured in this tutorial from Hands Occupied.



Soak away the Fabri-Solvy or tear away the tissue paper. If you're soaking it, remember that wool and wool blend felt will shrink in hot water. I used barely warm water and mine still shrunk just a bit. Blasting it with cool water was a better option.



Iron the fusible interfacing to the cotton fabric that will be your lining. Then iron it to the back of your embroidered felt. I like using paper-backed fusible interfacing, so that's what you see here. If yours doesn't have a paper back, you'll iron it to both pieces in one step.

Adding the "lining" will cover and protect the back of your stitching, which will keep it pretty longer.



Cut out the paper pattern, pin it to the embroidered felt, then cut out the shape.



Pin the zipper into the cut out opening.



Stitch around the zipper with running stitch. Take care to get a stitch or two into each side of the ends.

If hand sewing isn't your thing, you can do this part with a sewing machine. If you use matching thread for sewing, you can go back and add some hand stitched details just for cuteness' sake.



Trim the zipper ends so they are at least 1/4 inch in from the edges.



Fold the pouch in half and pin or clip the edges so they are aligned.



Stitch around the edge with running stitch. Again, you can do this on a sewing machine if you'd prefer.



Check that everything is secure and that your knots are hidden between the layers, and your pouch is finished!



The pouch is large enough to hold pens and a small note pad...





...or even some stitching supplies!



Of course, necessities like a phone, keys, and cash are always good for a little pouch.

Stitch one or stitch a bunch...use the star patterns or your favorite embroidery motif. You could make yours plain or add some felt applique. You could even reverse the pouch so that the felt is on the inside and the fabric is on the outside. So many ways to customize!

What will you keep in your pouch?

project // embroidered planner clips

I love planners and paper and stationery of all kinds. However, I buy them and never use them. Okay, so I use them a bit, but never like I should or want to. Certainly not like the people who are making their planners cute. Seriously, do a search for "make your planner cute" and you'll see what I mean.

When it comes to planners, I do some of my planning on Google Calendar, I check in on the family calendar my mom keeps, and the rest of the time I fly by the seat of my pants. Most of the time this works for me. It's just not too cute. (Why can't you add emoji to Google Calendar?!?!)

For now, I'm going to add some little clips to my notebook, and be happy with making that a little cuter. You can make some of these embroidered clips too...they're fast, and you can stitch any tiny design you like!



You will need:

Wool blend felt
Embroidery floss
Sulky Sticky Fabri-Solvy or tissue paper
Large paper clip
Fabric glue



Trace or print your chosen embroidery pattern onto Fabri-Solvy or tissue paper, then stitch through the material and felt.

The little kitty I'm using is part of a larger pattern from Amy Sinibali's book Sweetly Stitched Handmades. Any small pattern will do!



Cut around the embroidery, leaving some room so you don't get too close to those stitches. If you used Fabri-Solvy, soak it away, and if you used tissue paper tear away the tissue.

Cut a second piece of felt to match the shape of the embroidered piece. Keep track of which side needs to be up to match up with the front piece.



Apply a layer of fabric glue over the plain piece of felt, then lay the non-clipping side of the jumbo paper clip in the glue.



Smooth the embroidered piece onto the glue and allow it to fully dry.



Now your clip is ready to add onto your planner, your journal, your sketchbook, etc. (I am entirely smitten with this kitten and its eyes in two sizes!)




Your clip will mark your spot and hold groups of pages together! Or you know...you could use it like you would a normal paper clip!




I recently came across this fishy clip that seems really familiar to me. Like, maybe it was mine when I was a kid? It's not unusual for bits and bobs like this to magically appear at just the right time.

Fishy does look incredibly happy for an animal that is so close to another animal that might eat him. I'm guessing that they've become friends and all will be well. I hope.



I see many more stitched clips in my future. They are quick to stitch and put together, and they're such a fun extra to send to a friend!

project // embroidered hexagon necklace

I love having embroidery around all over the place, but I rarely embroider on clothes. Maybe I'm bad at commitment, but I worry that I'll be too locked in with that. I'd much rather wear embroidery by making jewelry and other accessories. There's much more flexibility with that!

This simple project combines my love of embroidery, small cuteness, and a little bit of English paper piecing. You'll need to know how to baste a hexagon, but that's it. I'll get into more details of working with embroidered hexagons soon, but I just couldn't wait to show off this little necklace!




Today's free Hexagon Tinies pattern is this little jam jar. I'm a little smitten with it! Susi has been sewing things with jam on them, and so this design is thanks to her.

Download the PNG Pattern

For these patterns, I'm putting them up as JPG files so that you can resize them if you want/need to, and so that you could print out more than one at a time (which is tricky with PDFs). Just save the file then open them in an image editing software or even place them in MS Word.



You will need:

Two 1-inch hexies: one plain, one embroidered
One yard of thin ribbon
Needle and thread
Embroidery floss



Make sure that the ribbon isn't twisted, then stitch the two ends together. Using a full yard of ribbon makes this a long necklace that fits easily over your head without needing jewelry hardware. However, you can adjust the length to suit you.



Finger press (or iron!) your hexagons, then remove the papers. Place the stitched ends of the ribbon in the middle of one of the hexagons so that the necklace part is evenly positioned at the top.

I like having the hexagon pointed up, but you can rotate this to have a flat edge up if that works better for your embroidered hexagon.



Hold the two hexagons wrong sides together (again, make sure your embroidery is rotated correctly!), then running stitch around the edges with 2-3 strands of embroidery floss, hiding the knots between the layers. Try to get two stitches through each piece of ribbon, but at a minimum, one stitch through each ribbon.

I found that Wonder Clips are SUPER helpful here. If you haven't gotten any of these little clips yet, look for a sale, use a JoAnn coupon...just get some. (Oh, how I wish I had gotten this set...I could use another 50 of them, right?) Let's get back to work...



Oh wait...that was the last step! Except, you may want to give it a little pressing with an iron. I find that it makes quite a difference in giving it a finished look.





This is a really quick project, with the embroidery on the hexagon taking the longest. And with a small pattern like this, that doesn't take very long at all. Still, you could easily skip the embroidery and use this for fussy cut hexagons or simply to show off your favorite fabric.

With all of the free Hexagon Tinies coming out this month, you could have a whole new collection of embroidered jewelry! Not to mention, pretty much any of the Teeny Tinies would work on a necklace like this. You could even get a jump on Christmas gifts!

Happy stitching!